But Ms. Kulchinsky’s storefront — where the pretzels are yeasty, blistered and fresh — is one of a few places where New Yorkers can now buy a real soft pretzel, mahogany brown on the outside, with plenty of loft and pull. The pretzel dough is freshly mixed and twisted by hand. Flavor and perfume come from a traditional baking method, not from a bath of melted butter.
House-made pretzels (and pretzel rolls) are having a fashionable moment in the city. They are adorning bread baskets at Per Se and Commerce, and are served on a board with Italian salumi and cheese at Bread Tribeca. At the Redhead, Meg Grace (who specializes in brilliant bar food) makes soft pretzels to serve with a tangy “beer cheese” dip.
Hope these soft, chewy snacks make it out to Hawaii.